It is spring. The subject of gardening and composting comes up at regular intervals in conversations; at least in my circles. Actually, composting is becoming a very big deal in gardening circles generally; and while I thought I knew just about everything possible about this subject because my dad, who started the compost pile 65 year ago, and I who inherited it, always strive to maintain it properly. Yet, I was surprised to find that there are many new composting ideas out there.
The foremost thing in natural fertilizing is the worm (vermi) composting system. Mary Appelhof, author of “Worms Eat My Garbage” is undoubtedly the composting queen. Appelhof explains that vermicomposting is using earthworms and microorganisms to convert organic waste into black, earthy-smelling, nutrient-rich humus. This is valuable in gardening circles, yet it is surprisingly simple.
You need a container, temperatures between 59 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit, some moisture, and bedding. The important product of all this is the casting. Casting is the word for worm “poop” that is the product of the worm after he/she (they are hermaphroditic) eats the food waste from the kitchen.
The general idea is to have a large amount of bedding material such as shredded newspapers, kitchen waste, soil, moisture, and about 1,000 worms in an enclosed space. The kitchen waste must not contain meat, oil, grease, or other animal products. This brings maggots (which are a bit icky in my opinion) and flies of all kinds. Stick to onion peels, apple skins, and similar left over vegetable parts. Egg shells are also fine, but while they add excellent calcium to the soil, it does take quite a bit of time to decompose. This is mostly because the worms had difficulty chewing through the hard shells.
Worms do not have teeth. They have gizzards just like birds. They have to take it in their petite mouths, grind it up in the gizzard, and then expel it through the body and out the other end. As they process the left-over vegetation from the kitchen their digestive systems turn it into vermicompost. However, if the material is the worked, and re-worked, it loses its nutrients. Over-worked material, called vermicast, means there is not enough nutrients for either the worms or the plants to survive. Thus, a properly maintained worm bin must be checked periodically, harvested for vermicompost, and monitored for both worm activity as well as their produce.
Location, therefore, is important for the composting enthusiast. Appelhof has several suggestions for location of the worm bin and her most interesting one is a coffee-table worm bin in her living room. I thought the plans were excellent and the idea innovative. I shared them with the wood-working husband of a good friend. The results will be reported in a future column — just as soon as she starts talking to me again.
Should you not wish to be as adventurous as Appelhof (and my friend’s husband), the basement, garage, and under your desk are also good places. These bins do not smell. Naturally, there may be some aroma detected initially if the bin is not working properly, but once it is fully functional there should be no odor. Thus, from even an aesthetic standpoint worm composting is a grand idea.
Appelhof is not the only worm aficionado. Henry Owen, author of “How to Start a Worm Bin: Your Guide to Getting Started with Worm Composting” has also gotten onto the bandwagon for composting with those cute little wigglers. The Latin name for both Owen and Appelhof’s worm herd is Eisenia fetida. In English they are usually called red worms. However, tiger worms, manure worms, or brandling worms are also common names. In any case, they are not like night crawler earthworms that burrow down several feet into the soil. Rather, these worms stay in the top 3 to 6 inches of the soil and work the kitchen waste like crazy. Owen also suggests starting with about 1,000 of them. That seems to be the golden number of choice. He makes suggestions of where to obtain the worms as well as how to construct a container. Should you wish to purchase one already made, much like a turn-key condo from what I could tell, he also has some excellent product reviews.
Suggestions for preparation of the kitchen waste are also covered. Owen advises running the waste through a blender to make the food easier for the worms to access. Other ideas include freezing the food scraps or letting them soak overnight to begin to break down. This is because the worms have tiny little mouths into which the food pieces must fit. Tea bags and coffee filters, with used coffee grounds, are just fine. However, too much garlic can burn their little tummies — so hold off on the spices. Otherwise, the little munchers will do just fine with a minimal amount of interference.
Of course, should something go wrong, troubleshooting is also covered in Owen’s book. Some of the greatest concerns are escaping worms (especially not good in the living room), odors (particularly for the boxes under the desk), and regulating moisture and temperature. All concerns are fully covered and quite easily dealt with. Plus, if you go on vacation there is no need for a sitter for your worm herd.
Overall, I was pleased with both Appelhof and Owen for their coverage of this topic. They are passionate, have exceptional experience, and have worked in the gardening field for many years.
Many years really is the key. We want youngsters to develop an interest in subjects such as gardening and composting starting at an early age. I had the benefit of a father who gardened organically, composted religiously, and grew most of what we ate with respect to vegetables. My mom canned the surplus for the winter months. Now, with less than 2 percent of the entire population of the United States directly involved in food production, things are very different. John Himmelman has stepped in to fill the void. His charmingly written and illustrated book “An Earthworm’s Life” is a delightful gardening and composting start for young children. This book is part of the Nature Upclose series that includes “A Dandelion’s Life,” “A House Spider’s Life,” and “a Slug’s Life.”
Himmelman explains how a worm spends a day, a season, and a year. Reproduction is discussed as is predators. A bit of drama is included when a robin spies our worm and tries to eat it. The strong worm, however, gets away and foils the bird. There is enough excitement and facts for the 5 to 8 year-old readers — who most likely will want to hear the story several times. I like the series for this age range. It is gentle, well-illustrated, and factual. Just remember that this book is about Lumbricus terrestris, the earthworm, and not the red worm of our earlier composting books. The importance of the earthworm for the gardener is not only the castings but also the tunneling. These are the ones that aerate the soil with their intricate subway system among the roots; yet another good friend to the gardener.
No, there is nothing icky about worms. They are compact little composting machines that go about their business chewing through scraps and soil, nourishing plants, improving the earth, and generally doing so with little recognition or appreciation. Therefore, the next time you see an earthworm lying on a sidewalk after a heavy spring rain — remember he most likely got flooded out of his tunnels and went looking for a new and dryer place to dig. Just pick him up, place him under a leaf of a plant on higher ground, and wish him well. He is doing us a very good turn.
Elaine Holden of Peterborough is a nationally recognized expert in the diagnosis and treatment of dyslexia. She is the director of The Reading Foundation and senior lecturer at Rivier College Graduate School of Education.