New England Wagyu: Raising Japanese delicacy in New Hampshire

In a grassy field, just before one of the rolling hills that give Hilltop Farm in Mason its name, is an unusual sight for New Hampshire: a small herd of purebred Wagyu steers.

They lie or stand in the grass, mostly basking and using their all-black coats to absorb the sunlight.

“As you can tell, they’re pretty lazy,” said Nate Choquette, the Hilltop site coordinator and farm manager for New England Wagyu. “And they have good temperaments.”

Indeed, as Choquette moves through the herd, they either amble out of his way or come closer for a head scratch.

Sam Rowse and Diana Templeton own the farm and herd. Choquette runs the Hilltop operation, where the cattle are raised for the first year and a half before moving to Templeton and Rowse’s other farm in Peterborough for another year and a half.

The Wagyu breed is native to Asia and bred most famously in Japan, where it was originally used as a draft animal because of its endurance, a trait that comes from the breed’s ability to store higher intramuscular fat. That fat also makes the meat a highly sought-after delicacy.

Wagyu has up to 300% more monounsaturated fat than standard beef, high levels of omega-3 and omega-6, and lower cholesterol than fish or chicken. It also has to be cooked differently from typical cuts of beef. The melting point of Wagyu fat is between 59 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit, compared with 104 to 122 degrees for typical American beef.

So how did a Japanese breed end up in Mason?

Though an ancient breed, the animals only started to be sold outside of Asia in the mid-1970s. Since being introduced in America and Australia, many have been crossbred with Angus cattle because Wagyu is a slow-growing breed. The animals at Hilltop Farm are 100% Wagyu.

After once trying Japanese Wagyu, Rowse decided to raise the animals himself, starting with two purebred steers. After successfully raising and selling the meat, he decided to expand the operation. The herd now numbers about 20, Choquette said, though it has been as large as 83.

Part of the reason Rowse was interested in raising Wagyu is how the breed is traditionally raised in Japan, which includes time on feedlots to reduce movement and build up fat. Rowse wanted to see what the results might be with an animal raised more on pasture. Choquette said New England Wagyu is raised on pasture, grain and grass, and finished with a brewer’s mash.

Eventually, Rowse purchased a butcher shop to process the animals, so that from birth until slaughter, they remain in the hands of New England Wagyu.

“It’s a point of pride that we control everything from birth to processing,” Choquette said. “For their entire three years, they only know three farmers.”

That level of care shows in the quality of the meat. In 2025, New England Wagyu ranked fourth overall in the national Triple Crown Steak Challenge in the 100% Wagyu category and ranked among the healthiest in the competition.

New England Wagyu can be purchased at local farmers’ markets, including the Peterborough Farmers’ Market; at the farm store at Hilltop Farm in Mason; or online at newagyu.com. Wagyu burgers from New England Wagyu are also sold at Market Basket.

For more information, or to order from New England Wagyu, visit newagyu.com or the farm store, open Monday through Saturday from 1 to 5 p.m. at 42 Valley Road, Mason.