Growing pains are, by definition, painful, but when a business outgrows its existing space, that suggests success.

This has been the case with the Flag Leaf Bakery of Antrim. The popular bread shop and patisserie is moving to Greenfield Center and planning to open across from Delay’s Harvester Market in mid-March. 

“Pretty quickly we were surprised at how busy we were,” said co-owner Melanie McCune. “There was more demand than we could with our existing space.”

McCune and her partner, John Ellingwood, opened Flag Leaf in 2022, and two years later, it was named best bakery in the Monadnock region in a reader’s poll from New Hampshire Magazine. Flag Leaf has seen lines down the block well before opening, and it is this success that has prompted the move.

“We need more equipment to increase production and ease schedules,” said McCune.

Among the additions at the new space on Forest Road will be a pastry oven and a machine that delays the fermentation process of dough. 

“In Antrim, we’ve had to tend to that matter at 11 p.m. at night, but now we won’t have to go in until 3 a.m.,” said McCune.

Tending to anything at that hour might not be for everyone, but Ellingwood is looking forward to it.

“It’s a lifestyle, and 3 a.m. will be a nice change,” he said.

The operation's accolades extend beyond a reader’s poll, as a spot on WMUR’s “New Hampshire Chronicle” and kudos from The Roaming Foodie, a Boston-based blogger, attest. Flag Leaf has resisted some of the staples of other such businesses, however. One example of this is the absence of a menu on its website.

“We’re a small team, and make what we like, rather than be changing the menu all the time,” McCune said.

Sourcing goods locally is another trait of the business. Sausage for Flag Leaf’s pizza slices has come from Blackfire Farm in Hancock, and Tenney Farm in Antrim has provided corn for the Mexican street corn offering. 

The couple has had a peripatetic path to the region.

“We were working at different bakeries in Asheville, North Carolina, years ago,” said Ellingwood. “Then to the Pacific Northwest, where there were wildfires.”

The fires were among the nudges to these parts, along with Ellingwood’s parents living in Hancock. 

Feb. 15 was last call at the Antrim location on Main Street.

“We thought of closing earlier to get on with the move, but decided that we should be open for Valentine’s Day,” said McCune. 

Patron Isaac Lombard said he would find his way to Greenfield.

“Everything here is good. I’m disappointed for Antrim (regarding the move) but I’ll follow them there,” he said. 

Christa Salamy of Antrim left the original location with a stack of boxed baked goods on a recent Friday. Behind her, another patron noted that a favorite pastry of hers was sold out.

“You have to get here early!” she offered.

This advice is not a secret, as those in the know queued up a half-hour before opening on Saturdays in Antrim. A sampling of customers there suggests that that line will be forming outside 792 Forest Road in Greenfield sometime in March.

McCune suggests the people follow the shop’s Instagram account for details on the move and reopening. Asked about working so closely with someone who is also your partner, Ellingwood has a tip.

“Be sure you’re able to laugh,” he said.